Tonight is my last night in Congo. My bags are packed except for the things
we’ll need tomorrow. I have a list next
to the computer with a reminder of the items still to go in my carry-on – my
computer, phone, Zola’s bottle, my toothbrush.
On the desk, I’ve set out on my doxycycline pill to take tomorrow
morning, the rest already in my carry-on, as I have to take it 30 more days in
case of any latent malaria. I have our
travel clothes laid out, which seems strange since our flight doesn’t leave
until 9:25PM. But we have to meet Jacky
and our protocol, Simon, at 9:00AM tomorrow morning to go to the airlines
office to check our bags. That way we won’t
have to shuffle them along at the airport tomorrow afternoon in the heat. Once our bags are gone, it’s just me, Zola,
her carrier, and a hefty backpack with all we’ll need to get us through the 24+
hour journey home. There’s a change of
socks and underwear for me. My glasses
and more contacts. Some pajamas for her
(the plane is cold) along with a blanket and two more cold weather changes of
clothes. I’ve got as much formula as I
could pack in, some burp cloths, a few toys, a book for me, should I find
myself with free time on the plane… And
a thick, still sealed manila envelope
of immigration documents to give to the fine folks at Newark who will let my
baby girl in the country. The rest is
tossed in a green bin to share with families who are still here and to put in
the common room for others who might find themselves in need. I grabbed a bag of nuts, some tuna, and a
converter there myself – oh, and a mini-Crock Pot I will use tomorrow to heat
some water for Zola’s bath. Last night’s
attempt with just the shower water did not go well (screaming baby). I have
money in three envelopes – one for my hotel bill, one for the exit tax,
protocol, and “VIP lounge,” and one for a tip for the lady who’s done our
housekeeping and taken a shine to Zola.
The last two days have been very slow but are coming to a
productive end. On Monday, after
breakfast with friends, I basically spent all day in my room playing with Zola,
napping, and reading. I had hopes that
my exit letter would come, but I didn’t hear anything from Jacky all day. In the afternoon, we wandered downstairs to
the bar (more a social gathering area that also sells water and beer than a
traditional bar; way more babies) and sat with other families and their
kids. Right around 5:00PM, Jacky
appeared with a helper in tow (and none of her hair – she’s got a super chic
crop going now) and asked if I could get a flight for Tuesday night. I said I could try, and she said my exit
letter would be ready. She then started
to think about getting everything in order for my departure – the driver, the
protocol, the documents – and I assured her I was fine to depart on Wednesday
as planned. No need to mess with the
travel agent. No need to pay a change
fee. Easy peasy. So Wednesday it was. She said she would be by on Tuesday with all
the documents. I emailed Wes and my
family and started to tell Zola about traveling home. She ate two bottles and fell asleep, then
reawoke and got the dreaded shower bath (just putting her in there made her
start to scream!), and then finally wrestled herself to sleep. Can I say that, while these two weeks in constant contact has probably been good
for our bonding, it’s going to be very nice to be able to put her down in a
crib and give her some room instead of having to watch her moan and groan and
squirrel her way around the bed? I had a
Snickers to celebrate, then read until bedtime while watching for response
emails from my family.
Today was more of the same, with a bit of purging and
packing figured in. We had a nice
breakfast with a new family who arrived last night. Today they met their nine-month-old son, L,
and are settling in with him. I took
some clothes and children’s medication and bibs and things to Keela to use in
their orphanage and foster home – stuff I can easily replace at home or won’t
use (read: Zola is too big for the clothes I brought here!). Zola took a good mid-morning nap, and I read
a bunch and found a satin crib sheet online to help address the serious bald
patch she has on the back of her head.
The weather today was as cool as it’s been since I got here. I took a shower mid-afternoon and then put on
a thin, long-sleeved shirt and the jeans I wore here on the plane and I wasn’t
hot at all. It was really pleasant. I sat outside for a bit until the vendors
down the street made it necessary for me to come inside, lest I spend the
entire night saying “No, merci,” in response to their entreaties.
At 5:00PM, I still had not heard from Jacky, and we had big
dinner plans. Keela and Dan, Heidi, me
and all the kids had a driver available, so we decided to have dinner at a
place called Nice Cream that our friend Christine recommended. The place is really nice, owned by a French
or Belgian woman. They serve everything
from waffles and crepes and coffee to burgers and sandwiches and salads. I got a ciabatta with tomato, mozzarella,
basil, and some pesto on it with a little side salad. It tasted amazing. And what would dinner at a placed called Nice
Cream be without dessert? Keela and I
both ordered the Brownie Explosion. Um,
yum. Way too much for one person, but
after two weeks of tuna and nuts, I went for it. Whatever weight I lost while here is
certainly back! Just before dessert, the
guesthouse called to let me know that Jacky was there. We’d left our number, just in case she showed
up. I told her where I was, and she
sweetly drove over to deliver all my documents.
I now have my exit letter and all the documents necessary to leave the
country. Many are the original adoption
documents I’ve received scans of over the last few months, which we’ll use back
in the US for re-adoption.
Once back in the room, I packed and Zola squirmed herself to
sleep (no wonder she’s missing so much hair on the back of her head!). One part of me is ecstatic to be leaving, one part is in a bit of disbelief, and one
part really hopes I get to come back sometime.
For another adoption, yes. But
also just to be here. Maybe so I can see
the place a bit more and not just be the White lady with the Black baby who has
to stay in the guesthouse all day, lest she and her young child be attacked by
angry mobs. Perhaps at some point I’ll
come back and teach for a month at the American School. Or maybe in the next ten years, Congo will
undergo a dramatic change, and I can bring my whole family back as
tourists. There are some great wildlife
sites near here that were too far out to attempt with a child. I know for sure that I want Zola to be able
to come back. She will grow up more or
less an American. She’s only six months
old, and by the time she’s a teenager, she may or may not have any real
interest in her Congolese heritage. But
I want to make sure I give her repeated opportunities to learn about and feel
good about it. I can say that, after
trips through at least a dozen countries other than the US, there’s something
about this part of the world that is simply welcoming. Warm, in both the literal and figurative
sense. Colorful. I want her, and ideally all my children, to
know that the whole world is not just like the US – that it is at the same time
wildly different and strangely similar – and to be able to truly appreciate a
culture that is not the one they know best, but one they understand.
For now, I will revel in the knowledge that this time
tomorrow night, Zola and I will be snuggled on a plane, getting ready for
takeoff. There is a sadness in taking
her away from this place where she was born and was loved by a woman and family
she will likely never see again. But
there is also great joy in knowing that she is heading to a family who will
love her just as much, in a different way, knowing she is a permanent part of
us. Zola is coming home.